This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We saw (and recorded) the Pope walk up and down the aisle. It was like getting crushed at a rock concert. Contributor. And in this town the people are doing a dress rehearsal for a precepio vivente, or, living nativity. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. I can't recommend this place enough. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? We rented a car this time instead of using the Circumvesuviana because we needed the freedom of travel a car provides. We had lunch outside (bufalo mozzarella of course) at a small cafe just outside the entrance. It was a wild ride for about 10 minutes. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. Walking around the town with the Christmas decorations was magical. We arrived in Salerno around 3:00pm and this was a little early. The off season hours of operation for various sites are pretty well documented but when it comes to the holidays, you have to check the opening and closing time carefully. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Bottles, trash, debris everywhere. I say supposedly because when we arrived, I found out that we needed to make an appointment to tour the farm and that the tours end at 11:00am. If you need to flag this entry as abusive, send us an email. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I hadn't thought about the ZTL when I booked the car. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. Excellent food, very reasonable prices. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. There were a few local activities happening that we stumbled onto. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. DVD-ROM Rick Steves' Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. The road is closed to traffic. 12 New Shows 2019-2020. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. European Christmas Music CD. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We made a quick visit to Santa Maria in Laterna and headed back to the apartment to get ready for midnight mass (which is actually at 9:30pm). We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. Crowded with tourists. It had a few more tourists but was still uncrowded and welcoming. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Orvieto was the same atmosphere. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. The tour was excellent and well worth it. A tip for anyone who ends up standing. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. It was a good history lesson for the kids who really liked the coffee mugs of the "fat" St Francis. At about 9:00pm, all the lights were turned on inside the Basilica. The food was good but his personality really made the night. I loved your very detailed report. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The square was not crowded during the day. Rick Steves' European Christmas DVD provides a vivid and authentic portrait of how Europeans celebrate the holiday from England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, and Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Our trip began by flying into Naples, renting a car, and driving to Sorrento. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. We were in Pompeii in June a few years back. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. It was standing room only. $20.00. Today we travel to Italy. Culture This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. It must have been quite a party that night! Find everything you need for packing — and planning your dream trip to Europe. I grabbed my 13 year old son and held on. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. Italy. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. We started the day with a visit to the Capitoline Museums and Trajan's Market. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. The next morning I woke up and rented a car at Roma Termini and drive back to the apartment to pick up the family for our trip to Orvieto then Siena. Our daughter is spending the year studying abroad in Florence, Italy and we have plans to visit her over Christmas break. Twenty four hours later we were home and unpacked with memories of a great trip. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. It turned out to be a great stop. Rick Steves' Europe. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. The mass started at 9:30pm. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Unlike all the other cities and towns we visited, Florence was crowded. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. We arrived in Naples airport around noon. At that point the crowd really started to push. He used it as a tool to teach people the story of the first Christmas. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers lacing together relics and sacred stops, including the tomb of St. Peter — marked by the greatest dome anywhere. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. There was a line of Christmas market stalls that line Lungomare Trieste along the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks. We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . We used Siena as a base for the next few days. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. For anyone contemplating visiting Italy over the holidays I would say do not hesitate. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. Saved from youtube.com. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. $49.99. will be closed? Then we arrived in Florence. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. Over the next nine months, I researched as best I could to put together an itinerary that would let us experience Christmas the way Italians do in a number of different cities and towns. Inside Rick Steves Italy 2020 you'll find:. We had to drive around the site to the west. I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. We passed though security and then stood in what became a mob at the first gate to get into St Peters. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. Almost. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. European Christmas Gift Pack. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. It was these types of experiences we had on this trip, being in Italy off season, that you just can't get over the summer. keywords It looked like a warzone. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. You exit the tunnels in the charming town of Seiano. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. To request tickets, google "vatican christmas mass tickets". It was a wonderful experience. The next day we took a drive from Sorrento to my ancestor's hometown of San Potito Ultra and stopped in Salerno on the way home. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Perhaps even stay the night. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Religion It's the Napa Valley of hill towns. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. Rick Steves. The nativity is at the entrance on the left as you face the altar. Does anybody have experiences and suggestions as to what goes on in Italy at this time? If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. As for the entrance, this is where we almost got tripped up. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with assembling the first manger scene in 1223. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. My Account . It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. It really is a special time to be there. Maybe have dinner. People continued to arrive for the next hour or so until all the seats were filed. Local and authentic. I had read about how nice it was to visit Pompeii and Ercolano off season and I can say it is really nice. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. I was surprised by the last part of the drive. Jump to bottom. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. (Men throwing cake and speaking in Italian.). St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. People were reaching and grabbing their partners. People without a seat had to stand outside the main aisle. I'm glad I did as the tickets go quick and it was a truly phenomenal experience. For anyone thinking of visiting Salerno during the holidays, a few tips. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over … A tip for anyone visiting Paestum. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. From there, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi coast road. Created with Sketch. We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. 2021. Rome. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. My Account . Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy; Please sign in to post. For Roman families there are more than just manger scenes to see. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. It really is a special time to be there. The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Luckily the ZTL was not in effect on Saturday morning so I was able to drive right in. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. People had already started arriving in the square to watch the service on the large monitors. The directions say to go to the gate on the left side of the Vatican. We relaxed, people watched the locals and then headed for our train in Naples. My wife showed up around 8:30pm and said the security line was still long. I didn't make dinner reservations as most restaurants close by 11:00pm and I wasn't sure what time we'd get out. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy; Please sign in to post. You need to request tickets well in advance via email or fax (google "vatican scavi") with groups limited to 12 people and no one under age 15. It was very cold and in the clouds the entire time. It could very well be the best trip you ever make. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. It is lined with shops and at this time of year, is full of decorations, a huge Christmas tree and people everywhere. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. We spent the rest of the day enjoying Rome. Many streets were closed and it took another 20 minutes to find an open route to our hotel (Antiche Mura - highly recommended BTW). And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. It felt as though we were the only tourists. I had booked the Vatican scavi tour (the tour under the Vatican where you see the bones of St Peter) for 3:30pm and I also needed to pick up tickets for Christmas Eve mass. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. A word of advice, don't rent a car and drive back into the city. Possibly the best meal I had in Italy. And here in the capital of Catholicism, each Christmas lovingly constructed manger scenes, called presepi, pop up all over town. It's a joyful occasion and by all accounts those doing the giving feel as blessed as those they feed. We just returned from a two week trip to Italy over the Holidays. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We were still able to walk around. ), And today the children have another important errand. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. The seats were filed with temperatures in the city use Sorrento as a home base for the trip... Town the people are doing a dress rehearsal for a precepio vivente,,... 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